Greece: Olympic Games. Language Technologies Institute. Prado Museum, страница 2

Most frustrating of all is the fact that the Prado has no control over its finances. Its budget is set by the finance ministry and the museum must return any unspent money at the end of each year. The Prado is not allowed to operate a bank account and it cannot accept corporate sponsorship without the prior authorisation of Spain's finance ministry.

The museum last year turned down an offer of audio guides because the headsets bore the logo of a private telecommunications group. Only recently it won special authorisation to publish a modest floor map for 1.8 million visitors it receives each year.

Few art-lovers would disagree with Mr Serra's diagnosis. The Prado, he says, is understaffed, underfunded and hamstrung by a legal framework that stifles all private initiative.

The remedy, however, is not straightforward. Mr Serra's plans for the modernisation of the Prado have clashed with the conservative views of Spain's art establishment. For them Mr Serra is a merchant in their temple of high art; a philistine who would turn the Prado into a private playground for the rich.

Mr Serra's offence consisted in arguing that the Prado must be given more financial freedom and more control over its resources. He wants to treble the budget, to E45m, by 2005 and he wants to raise slightly more than half of this by the museum's own fundraising efforts.

Shrinking state subsidies mean that most museums in Europe have had to become active fundraisers. The Louvre in Paris now derives 40 per cent of its income from private sources, while the National Gallery in London meets a third of its running costs through donations, membership programmes and corporate sponsorship.

The Prado, however, has no such freedom. Mr Serra is campaigning for changes in the law, which limits private donations to the Prado to E300. As a result, the Foundation of the Friends of the Prado has only a few hundred members, who are offered no special privileges. "I cannot send sponsors a magazine because we do not publish it," Mr Serra laments. "I cannot invite donors to special exhibitions because we stage so few ."

"Should we not make a greater effort to obtain private resources to make better use of public funds?" Mr Serra asked in a recent speech. "This approach has been derided as a dangerous step towards the privatisation of the Prado. A dispassionate consideration of the problem would yield the very opposite conclusion."

Few Spaniards, however, feel dispassionate about the Prado. Mr Serra concedes: "The Prado is the cultural symbol of Spain. To propose change is like laying your hands on the family silver. The very concept of modernising management is treated as a crime."

At the heart of the debate is a tug-of-war between those who believe that the Prado's sole mission is to guard the national heritage and those, like Mr Serra, who believe the museum should be more active in engaging the public, with a livelier educational programme and more frequent temporary exhibitions.

At present, a visit to the Prado is a dispiriting affair: there is little information for the layman, rooms are frequently closed to the public and there are only six guides for the thousands of tourists who arrive each day. The Prado knows little about its visitors: it keeps no records of their age or provenance, or how many of them have visited the museum before.

The expansion, however, will require radical changes to the way the museum is managed. The Boston Consulting Group, which is advising the Prado on its modernisation programme, estimates that staff numbers will have to double to 700 and that the museum will require "a new management model that is much more geared towards attending the public".

Mr Serra believes the museum's staff should be better paid. He would like to introduce a proper career structure, with annual performance reviews and promotion for those who do well.

Change, however, does not come easily to a conservative 18th-century institution whose bureaucracy is as dark and as impenetrable as any of Goya's Black Paintings. The Prado's staff are civil servants with life-long tenure and, although they are pitifully paid, they are suspicious of Mr Serra's attempts to drag them into the 21st century. They are particularly wary of his plans to circumvent the government hiring freeze by getting special dispensation to employ non-civil service staff on temporary contracts. In a letter to the board of trustees last year, the Prado's specialist staff rejected annual performance reviews and the carrot of better pay. They said they saw no reason why the Prado should change.

The clash between modernisers and traditionalists triggered the resignation last year of Fernando Checa, the Prado's director. Mr Checa, a mild-mannered art historian with a halo of fuzzy hair and in large tortoiseshell spectacles, accused Mr Serra of "interfering too often in my relationship with the curators and with the museum's scientific staff".

Mr Checa, a traditionalist, believed the scholarly integrity of the Prado was being undermined by Mr Serra's plans. His successor, Miguel Zugaza, who is credited with breathing new life into Bilbao's Museum of Fine Arts, is understood to be more in tune with the chairman's thinking.

Mr Zugaza and Mr Serra have only a few months to overcome the political, legal and bureaucratic obstacles that stand in the way of the Prado's modernisation. It will be a fight worthy of the great battles that are depicted in the halls of the museum, although it is to be hoped it will not be as bloody.